Lash Lift Guide: How It Works, Risks and Aftercare

What Is a Lash Lift and How Does It Work?

A lash lift is a semi-permanent chemical treatment that curls your natural lashes upward instead of adding extensions. Cleveland Clinic ophthalmologist Nicole Bajic, MD, puts it simply: "Basically it's like a perm. But instead of it being applied to your hair, the solution is applied to your lashes to give them a curled effect." At JH Beauty in Sunnyvale, the menu lists Keratin Lash Lifting at $128 for a 60-minute appointment, described as using a keratin formula to lift and curl the lashes.

Cleveland Clinic describes the general process this way: a silicone mold is attached to the eyelid with glue, and a chemical solution is applied that breaks down and reorganizes the disulfide bonds in the lashes so they hold the curved shape. In the process Cleveland Clinic describes, the perm solution sits for about 15 minutes and the whole appointment takes around 45 minutes. That is a general description, not JH Beauty's own protocol. Products and timings differ between brands, and JH Beauty has not published a step-by-step description of its service, so ask at booking if you want to know which product is used.

A lift does not add length or thickness. It changes the angle of your own lashes, so the result depends on the lashes you already have. Because the curl is set into the lash itself, it grows out with the lash. As Dr. Bajic says, "once your new lashes start to grow in, this treatment runs out and you'll need to get it redone."

How Long Does a Lash Lift Last?

There is no single answer, because it depends on your lash growth cycle and the product used. One lift-kit maker, Nouveau Lashes, says the tint and curl from its LVL lift "can last up to 8 weeks, depending on your lash cycle." JH Beauty's menu describes its lift as using a keratin formula without naming the product or giving a duration, so ask how long its lift typically holds before you plan around a number.

If you want to budget, you can work it out yourself. At $128 a lift, repeating it every six to eight weeks would come to roughly $830–$1,110 a year. That is an illustration, not a recommended schedule; how often you repeat it is your call, and frequency matters for the health of your lashes, as the risks section explains.

Lash Lift vs. Lash Extensions: Which Should You Choose?

If you are deciding between a lift and extensions, the choice comes down to the look you want, how much upkeep you will accept and your budget.

Lash extensions attach separate fibers to your natural lashes with glue, so they add length and fullness a lift cannot. At JH Beauty, extension sets are listed at $168 for a classic Japanese single-strand set, $178 for volume, $198 for camellia and $218 for designed styles. The shop's own guidance is that a set looks full for about two to three weeks. The American Academy of Ophthalmology (AAO) lists possible risks of extensions including "trauma to or infection of the eyelid or cornea; allergic reaction to the glue; and permanent or temporary loss of eyelashes." On regulation, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration says it "considers false eyelashes, eyelash extensions, and their adhesives to be cosmetic products," which "must adhere to the safety and labeling requirements for cosmetics." Like other cosmetics apart from color additives, they do not need FDA approval before sale: the FDA notes that "cosmetic products and ingredients do not need FDA premarket approval, with the exception of color additives." The FDA also advises checking the ingredients of lash adhesives because of possible allergic reactions or irritation.

A lift works only with what you have. It suits people who want their own lashes to look curled without wearing extensions. Extensions suit people who want visible added length or volume. Neither is free of risk, and both involve chemicals or adhesive near the eye.

For a side-by-side of costs and upkeep, read our guide: Lash Extensions vs. Lash Lifts: Which Is Right for You? For JH Beauty's full lash menu, see the lash extensions page.

Risks: What an Ophthalmologist Says

A lash lift is often marketed as low-risk, but the Cleveland Clinic article is cautious. Dr. Bajic's overall position is: "Overall, I don't recommend these being done." Her specific concerns:

• Allergic reactions. "Very frequently, people can have a sensitivity to fragrances or added chemicals," she says. Symptoms include redness, swelling and rashes around the eyes.
• Overprocessing. "These lash lifts are chemically altering your hair, as well as affecting a very sensitive part of your face." Repeated chemical exposure can damage lashes the way repeated dyeing can damage hair.
• Infection and inflammation. The article says the procedure increases the risk of blepharitis, an inflammation of the eyelids.
• Unknowns. "We don't know what the long-term potential effects are."

Her practical advice: if you go ahead, "it's the best practice to at least have a patch test done prior," and she notes this is not routinely done, so ask for one. She also suggests that an occasional lift for a special event is less of a concern than frequent repeats: "If it's couple times a year for something like a wedding or a big event, you're probably not going to cause significant damage."

If you have an eye infection or eyelid inflammation, have had recent eye surgery, or have reacted to perm or lash products before, talk to your eye doctor before booking. If you wear contact lenses, ask your eye doctor or the lash artist how to handle them on the day.

Lash Lift Aftercare: What Product Makers Say

Aftercare instructions come from the maker of the lift product, and they do not all agree, so follow what your lash artist tells you for the product used on you. Two examples show how much they can differ:

• Nouveau Lashes (LVL): "For the first 24 hours, make sure your LVL lashes don't get wet and avoid any steam, swimming, or washing your face with hot water." It also advises "No oil-based make-up or remover."
• Elleebana: "Contact with water in the first 24 to 48 hours after treatment will not affect the end result," but "it is essential to avoid exposure to heat and steam" during that period. It also says to "steer clear of rich products such as eye creams, face oils, mascaras and makeup removers" in the first 24–48 hours, and notes that sleeping on your side or face down "can cause lashes to sit in a new and unsightly direction."

The common thread is to treat the first day or two gently: avoid heat and steam, avoid rich or oily products around the eyes, and do not sleep with your face pressed into the pillow. Whether water is allowed straight away depends on the product.

Who Might Consider a Lash Lift

A lift may suit you if your lashes are long enough to curl but point straight out or down, and you would rather not wear extensions or curl your lashes every morning. It is less useful if your lashes are very short or sparse, since a lift cannot add length. If that is you, extensions are the option that adds length, with the risks the AAO lists.

It may not suit you if you have sensitive eyes or a history of reactions to cosmetics, given the allergy concerns Cleveland Clinic raises. Dr. Bajic's own suggestion for anyone who just wants curl is low-tech: "if you want a curled effect of your lashes, just use a regular old eyelash curler."

If you decide to book, you can reserve Keratin Lash Lifting from the JH Beauty menu. Mention any eye conditions, allergies or past reactions when you book and ask about a patch test.

FAQ: Lash Lifts

How long does a lash lift last?

It depends on your lash cycle and the product. Nouveau Lashes says its LVL lift can last up to 8 weeks depending on your lash cycle, and Cleveland Clinic notes the treatment runs out as new lashes grow in. Ask JH Beauty how long its keratin lift typically holds.

Does a lash lift damage your natural lashes?

It can. Cleveland Clinic's ophthalmologist warns that repeated chemical exposure can overprocess and damage lashes, and that long-term effects are unknown. She considers an occasional lift, a couple of times a year, less likely to cause significant damage.

Can I wear mascara after a lash lift?

Follow the aftercare for the product used on you. Elleebana, for example, says to avoid mascaras and makeup removers for the first 24–48 hours, and Nouveau Lashes advises against oil-based makeup and remover.

Is a lash lift better than using an eyelash curler?

A lift lasts longer than a curler's curl, but it involves chemicals near the eye. The Cleveland Clinic ophthalmologist quoted above recommends a regular eyelash curler for anyone who simply wants curled lashes.

Should I ask for a patch test?

Yes. Cleveland Clinic's ophthalmologist calls a patch test before a lash lift best practice and notes it is not routinely done, so ask when you book.

How much does a lash lift cost at JH Beauty?

Keratin Lash Lifting is $128 for a 60-minute appointment. JH Beauty's lash extension sets range from $168 to $218. See current prices and session lengths on the menu.